Dining Out- San Francisco & Northern California, 3/15/05 to 3/22/05

1 State
6 ½ Days
54 Towns
35 Restaurants
31 Bakeries
10 Ice Cream/Gelato Shops
9 Donut Shops
8 Candy Shops
5 Coffee Shops

I’m lucky and humbled to have seen more of this great country. My travels took me to San Francisco, circled around Sonoma and Napa Valleys, into Sacramento, to northern California, southeast to Gold Country, through the mountains to Yosemite, crossing over the orchards of the Fresno area and then back to the Bay Area.

Dining out can be as much about the atmosphere and history of the restaurant as about the food; even more so when traveling and finding local institutions. Because of this I will break from the normal format to give some insight into the aura of the eatery. The notables chronologically:

SAN FRANCISCO


Swan Oyster Depot
Nob Hill


Dolling out fresh seafood since 1912 I grabbed one of the 19 wobbly stools, enjoyed a cup of Boston Clam Chowder and watched the personable counter guys shuck oysters, open clams, slice up fish and talk passionately about seafood.


Sam Wo
Chinatown


You enter through the kitchen, find the stairs and climb to the 2nd or 3rd floor narrow dining rooms. Orders are dropped via string to the kitchen and said order is brought up on a dumbwaiter. While I had to dig for the meat in the Fried Rice with BBQ Pork, the $3.25 was well worth the price of admission.



A pilgrimage can be made for bakeries and dim sum in Chinatown alone. At Eastern Bakery I crunched on a Crispito, at Golden Gate Bakery nibbled on a Vanilla Rice Cake, The AA Bakery was a Paste Cookie, a Chinese favorite Egg Tart at Wonder Food Bakery and Shrimp Dumpling at Good Mong Kok.


Chinatown is full of alleys and along one of these nondescript narrow passageways is the tiny Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Co. I watched the ladies take hot wafers and fold them around the fortune on a stainless steel rod. Then bought a bag for a buck.


Molinari Delicatessen
North Beach


“Thatsa gooda sandwich” muttered the counter guy as he cut the Molinari Special. Grabbing a sidewalk table I negotiated getting through the many types of meats (most of which they make themselves), cheese, veggies and bread.


North Beach is an Italian neighborhood so there is no shortage of alluring bakeries. Biscotti at Danilo Bakery, enticement at Stella Pastry Caffe and Almond Orange Shortbread from Victoria Pastry Co.


Nationally acclaimed XOX Truffles was a stop for a Framboise.

Who can pass up frozen treats? In Gelato Classico it was Fresh Banana Walnut and Caramello Chocolate Crunch.


Mama’s On Washington Square
North Beach


I joined the locals in line across from the namesake park and waited for the all-from-scratch breakfast/lunch place to open. The Swedish Cinnamon French Toast was a bright spot to start the morning for another day of climbing SF hills.


Liguria Bakery Soracco & Co.
North Beach


1) They only have focaccia.
2) If you do one thing you must do it great.
3) The Pizza Focaccia was the best thing I put in my mouth the entire trip.
4) Wrapped in paper and tied with string it is an 8X10 piece
A) Did I eat the whole thing?
-No.
B) Did I want to?
-Yes.


I’ve been to the Ghirardelli’s in Las Vegas and Chicago, but felt required to visit one of them in the original factory now Ghirardelli Square. Manufacturing has long moved across the bay but they do still produce some chocolate here.


Fog City Diner

A gleaming stainless steal and neon exterior, but this is no greasy spoon. Inside is an elegant atmosphere of polished dark woodwork, beaded glass, plush carpeting and lots of brass. The menu features a raw bar, duck confit, grilled Atlantic salmon, and lamb chops with emergo beans, oven dried tomatoes and violet mustard vinaigrette.


Cracked Dungeness Crab
It was a mess, but fun to dig the meat out of this crustacean.


Emerging from the Bay Area Rapid Transit at 9PM I found the Mission District a buzz with activity. Sighting a line at Taqueria El Farolito I knew this was a must stop. The Al Pastor was amazing with its grilled pork, cold crunch of onion and bright cilantro.


Handcrafted since 1953 at Mitchell's Ice Cream I sampled Ginger, Lemon Chiffon, Thin Mint, Cinnamon Snap, Dulce de Leche and settled on Halo Halo- a mixture of buko, langka, pineapple, ube, mungo beans and sweet beans


Sidewalk tables taken, a line inside and cases of temptations showed Tartine Bakery & Café was a good stop. Muesli- brick oven roasted whole grains, organic Straus whole milk yoghurt, fresh and dried organic fruits and toasted nuts.


Outside SF in seaside Sausalito Lappert's Ice Cream was a chance to sample Kauai Pie, Guava Sherbet and decide on Maui Mango and Banana Caramel Chocolate Chip.

NAPA VALLEY


A narrow storefront in rustic Calistoga San Marco Café is noted for brownies. Pricey so I got the cookie version of one as an Ultimate Cookie. So gooey you’re fooled into thinking it is under baked.


You can presume I had to stop at the California location of the Culinary Institute of America. At their DeBaun Café I got a Mocha Chocolate Muffin . Guess what?! Dry! Back to class!


Tayler’s Refresher
St. Helena


A welcome roadside sight in Napa Valley their burger comes half wrapped as a tempting presentation. Hidden in there is a juicy beef patty, lettuce, tomato, pickles, secret sauce on a toasted Sciamba egg bun.


At Yountville’s Bouchon Bakery Cannele de Bordeaux sounds fancy, but is simply a treat on the taste buds.

SACRAMENTO AREA


Putah Creek Café
Winters


Maybe the only reason to go to Winters is to start the day with one their many breakfast choices. John’s Old Fashioned Oatmeal was my healthy selection.


There is another reason for Winters- Lester Farm’s Bakery. While pondering my choices she told me there were Strawberry & Cheese Sticks fresh out of the oven in the back. Good call!


In the state capitol after I finally chose a Thumbprint the nice lady at Philipp’s Bakery gave Mr. Non-Decisive a Chocolate Chip Cookie.

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA


Roberta’s Taqueria stand is outside rough-around-the-edges Williams was a chance at Taco de Cabesa- cow brains.


Amigo de Acapulco is road food in its strictest definition. This trailer in Corning’s olive country dished up a tremendous Pollo Asado- charbroiled chicken exquisitely seasoned.


Lily's
Mount Shasta

In the shadow of the mountain this charming Victorian with its white picket fence is a series of relaxing dimly lit rooms.


Shrimp Skewers
Charbroiled shrimp marinated in teriyaki sauce served on mixed greens with grilled polenta and balsamic vinaigrette.

While the marinade was not perceptible the plump, firm shrimp carried a nice grilled accent. The polenta was laced with olives and tomato; all was boosted by the balsamic.


McCloud Soda Shoppe & Café
McCloud

One of the two businesses open in this tiny mountain community I escaped a dreary drizzle to sit next to a pot bellied stove and have a very good Hot Cake.


Do you want it warmed up? Yes please. I stood on the wooden sidewalk outside the other business open, Sugar Pine Candy Co. Candy Shoppe, and marveled at the wisps of steam curling from a Caramel Muffin.


Pluto's
Chico


They carve their own oven roasted meats by order, place on freshly baked bread and it shows with this Grilled Herbed Chicken, Garlic Mayo, Caramelized Onions, Mixed Greens, Sierra Nevada Honey Mustard on Herbed Focaccia.

GOLD COUNTRY


Confectionary Mine
Nevada City


Mel and Faye's Diner
Jackson


The reward for ratcheting your jaw open is a Moo Burger. Now on my favorites list.

In the mountains of Placerville’s Gelato D’Oro Café I made the rounds with Hazel Nut, Green Tea, Banana Nut, Raspberry, Coffee Dutch Almond, Cappuccino Chip, Mango and Vanilla Bean.


The Miner’s Shack
Sonona


Second best Chicken Fried Steak I’ve had. Properly pounded out meat is deftly coated with a well-seasoned thick crust.


Ceiling and walls plastered with yesteryears album squares was a stop for a crunchy grilled sourdough/gooey cheese Turkey Melt at Happy Burger Diner in Mariposa before delving into breathtaking Yosemite.

CENTRAL CALIFORNIA


On the fringes of Fresno is where I sampled Mexican frozen delights in La Reina de Michoacan Paleteria y Neveria with a nice lady and learned aqua based has a more intense flavor then cream based. The refreshing choice was Mango Paletas de Aqua.


Down the street is Panaderia Escobar for a heavy for its size capinotata (phonetic). Makes sense since it packed so much flavor!


There are three worthwhile chains:
1) Cold Stone Creamery
2) Fatburger
3) Sonic America’s Drive In (Madera is my 10th location visited)

BAY AREA


El Grullense Jal
Gilroy


I never care when I am visibly out of place in a shady part of town and in this case my $1.50 resulted in a spectacular Pollo Sopes. Thick tortilla carrying a punch of flavor from seasoned grilled chicken and appropriate toppings.


Just Breakfast
Morgan Hills


Driving through this tree lined community looking for a breakfast spot the Food Gods smiled down. Spinach Omelette with a creamy, thick mixture of spinach, mushrooms, onions, bacon and Monterey Jack. Heck, skip the egg, just give me a bowl of this mixture!


Even though at $2.30 it was more expensive than some of my meals, the Chocolate Brioche was worth it. After touring the Winchester Mystery House I went back to Cocola Bakery & Pastry in San Jose’s well-planned shopping and dining Santana Row to find out what kind of chocolate they use.


At Easter time I had to have a Hot Cross Bun, provided by Belmont’s Pilgrim Kitchen. Hot, sweet and savory!

SAN FRANCISCO


Tadich Grill

Since 1849 white jacked waiters have been bustling about this San Francisco institution.


Seafood Ciopinno
Created in San Francisco by Portuguese fisherman it was fun to dig though this intricate stock for clams, prawns, scallops, bay shrimp, crabmeat and whitefish.